BOX 787 DAVIS, CALIFORNIA 95617

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Welcome to Classic Bicycle Heaven! This website is dedicated to identification, cataloging and restoration advice on bicycle history, especially Classic American bicycles 1920 thru 1965. Be it Schwinn, Shelby, Columbia, Evans, Evinrude, Elgin, J.C. Higgins, Western Flyer, Hawthorne, Hiawatha, Roadmaster, Pierce, Iver Johnson, Indian, Rollfast, Firestone, B.F.Goodrich, Good Year, Bowden, Manton & Smith, Mead, Ranger, Ingo-Bike, Murray, Mercury, Huffman, Huffy, Dayton, Colson, Monark, Silver King, Rocket, Stelber, Ross, Harley Davidson, Whizzer, Dynacycle, Wasp, Pow-wow, Travis, Marman, Jack & Heintz, Sherrell, or what have you, (if you don't see the name of your bicycle here...just ask us) National Bicycle History Archive of America (NBHAA) can identify virtually any American-built bicycle or motorized bicycle from this period.

The Archive now contains over 60,000 original catalogs, photos and advertisements ranging from the 1860s thru 1960s. Hundreds of books ranging from one of the first English language bicycle books in the 1860s to more modern works such as Pryor Dodge's THE BICYCLE are included. Countless head badges, games, clocks Neon signs, pins, original drawings, blueprints and other bicycle memorabilia are part of The Archive.

Also included are over 300 original old bicycle movies (NOT videos- but REAL 16mm FILMS) dating back to the 1930s and mountains of related historical memorabilia. The Archive materials represent a lifetime of collecting painstakingly accumulated over a period of nearly fifty years. The contents of The Archive were not recently obtained. Aside from limited displays at major museums and industry events, these items have never been on full display to the public. But you will begin to see many of them by merely visiting this site.

We can assist private collectors with information and advice on history and restorations. We are available with movies, videos, slide shows, speaking engagements, and have access to the curator's collection of over 1,000 bicycles. NBHAA is not affiliated nor connected in any way with a defunct museum. Nor are we part of a club or group. Although we do have specific fees for certain services such as detailed research and copies, we have never and do not ask for "memberships" of any kind. Anyone who says so or thinks so is mistaken. Furthermore, we are not represented by nor connected with any other persons or organizations. Although we do not sell bicycles or parts, we can assist you in locating those who do.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly via E-mail or snail mail. Remember, ALL identification requests and inquiries must be accompanied by a photo and self-addressed stamped envelope. We regret that due to the volume of inquiries we receive, we cannot respond to snail mail as rapidly as e-mail (we have a substantial backlog of the latter). All photo submissions become property of NBHAA and we regret we can no longer return photos due to the volume of mail.

Thus, submitted for your approval is the first installment of NBHAA Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs). We will be adding to this section over time, so stay tuned for more info and expansions.

NBHAA FAQs* (*Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: What is NBHAA?

A: National Bicycle History Archive of America is a historical archive– a library containing over 60,000 catalogues, books, photos and other related items pertaining to bicycles. We began collecting these items in the early 1950s- many were ancient even then. Our earliest items begin in the 1860s and range through the 1980s. We also have rare original bicycle movies (actual 16mm FILMS) ranging from the 1930s through the 1980s. The world's only bicycle movie archive. The Archive also has access to your curator's collection of over 1,000 classic bicycles, so we know what we are talking about. NBHAA is an archive, but not a museum.

Q: How can I get serial number lists of all old bicycles?

A: Again, contact us WITH PHOTOS and ask, but we don't hand out whole lists. Ahhhhh! Serial number freeks! We love ya. But where were you 40 years ago? You could have spent a lifetime gathering this info– but you didn't. Luckily, we did. NOW, after all these years, you want it.

Anybody who tells you they can positively, accurately date your bicycle just off of a name and serial number is just pulling your chain and doing WAGS. Serial numbers AND MODEL NUMBERS were often reused and they do not always follow a systematic progression. We originally began assembling bicycle serial number records in the 1970s- so we're not just jumping in to this thing 40 years later–today– later trying to guess and figure this all out! We have pretty much complete serial number records for the following:

• Westfield/Columbia

• Murray Ohio Mfg. Company (not "Murray OF Ohio" as some misinformed people in the hobby have taken to calling it in recent years. By the way– WHEN did this silliness start and who started it???)

• Dayton/Huffman/Huffy

• Shelby Cycle Company

• Elgin/J.C. Higgins/Sears

• Schwinn (and not the limited old tired stuff you find online over and over again, but far more detailed original factory records)

• Monark-Silver King Inc.

• Cleveland Welding Company

• Western Flyer

• Firestone

• B.F. Goodrich

• CCM

And we also have partial records for Colson, Snyder, Rollfast, Hawthorne, Hiawatha, Mead Cycle, Bowden (NOTE THAT WE HAVE THE COMPLETE ORGINAL SHIPPING LIST FROM THE FACTORY), Sherrell, Stelber, Hiawatha, Iver Johnson, Pierce, Good Year, and many more. And–of course– we have the original catalogues for just about ALL vintage bicycles. We DON'T GUESS. If you want professional, accurate information, instead of amateur guessing, here is where you get it.

But the biggest mistake that people make is they listen to DIY'ers and presume they can diagnose their own serial numbers in a snap. And they are usually wrong. This just is NOT a DIY proposition. It requires a lot of study and at least some expertise. And it is extremely rare that a model number or a serial number was used for one year and one year only. And forget "using the Schwinn format" or going by the name that is on the bicycle.

Here is a typical question we get: "I have a Western Flyer serial number 222xxx555. Who made it and when was it made?" WELL? Who knows? There were at least two dozen different companies that made bicycles and trikes badged "Western Flyer." That amounts to MILLIONS of serial numbers if you count all of the models over many decades of production. Any ID on that basis alone is sheer nonsense. This is just one reason why we have to SEE what you may have. At least THEN we know where to start looking. Anyone too lazy to take simple photos, but then expects us to sit and dig through millions of serial numbers is mistaken. And if that is offensive, so be it. You have our blessing to join the WAGS and guess your way to an answer.

We don't simply hand out lists. And we don't do WAGs here. We don't make up history here. And we don't state something as a fact just because "a buddy told us so." Or because we read it in a chat room or "forum." We only provide factual historical information here. No guessing. It has taken over 40 years and a lot of very hard work to assemble the listings we have. But we CAN tell you– ACCURATELY– when and who made your American-made bicycle–particularly if it is from the classic era. What's the classic era? Read your NBHAA.com FAQs!

Q: How can I get identification of my bicycle or part?

A: Contact us! Since 1977 we have identified well over one MILLION old bicycles for collectors. We can identify almost any bicycle manufactured in North America between 1920 and 1970. We can also assist with bicycles made prior to this AND after this time. However, our era of specialty is between these dates. Also, since we primarily focus on American-made bicycles our involvement with non-domestic bicycles is limited. In some cases such as Raleigh and certain other imported makes, we do have a good amount of archival material. In other cases, we can advise you where to get information. How do you get an identification? email us with PHOTOS! We have to SEE what it is you have. Names and descriptions alone are almost useless without photos. See instructions elsewhere in the FAQs section on taking photos. Accompany your photos with a short letter and please use salutations in your letters. The internet has spawned a whole new genre of rudeness. If you write without even saying hello and start right in with something like, "I got a Monark and a Schwinn. Send me everything you got on them- and I need it yesterday!" This is not going to impress us and it won't do anything to get you the real information that you need and can use. Take the time to send a decent note and take some decent photos. THEN we can respond with accurate information about whatever bicycle or part you may have.

Q: Where can I go on NBHAA's site to do my own research and look into your files?

A: Many people have gotten accustomed to "do-it-yourself" (DIY) web sites where it becomes a community swap meet of guessing. "Vintar Peequar sez they were only made for 2 months and only in blue"... he knows so because Pozo Seeko told him he saw a Xerox once! But Arkwar Farquar sez...oh no! They also made PINK Rollfast Phantoms on the 4th of July in a snowstorm when the power at the factory went out and they had to use J.C. Higgins parts to do it! Witnessing all this, it looks like anybody can just jump in and fingerpaint too. Looks like fun! Who needs real knowledge when you can just make up and say anything and sound cool?

So people think they can do their own research and get quickie answers - often for very difficult issues. Quickie answers are not necessarily ACCURATE answers. They may make you feel better, but quickie responses seldom tell you what you really need to know. NBHAA is not a do-it-yourself web site, but rather is a real archive. We are concerned with accuracy and facts. We do not use "consensus," blogs, chats, gossip, fuzzy Xeroxes, other people's opinions or wild guessing to arrive at our responses. Such methods may be democratic and invite a lot of interaction on a web site, but such stuff is why you are looking for answers in the first place...right? And such stuff is why it became necessary to have our GTCC section.

Ever see a car that was designed by a committee or group of people rather than one knowledgeable designer who KNEW what he was doing? Same thing. Our files are not on the internet and are not open to the public. That would take a huge, HUGE server and lots more expense. We just cannot possibly put over 60,000 items in digital format on the web- plus all of our lifetime of expertise. We can't possibly teach you everything we know about classic bicycles by a mere web site! Sometimes, you just have to rely on a real human being who has first-hand knowledge- as incredible as that may seem to some Internet users today. We prefer to give you accurate information and that means you can't DIY here.

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Q: What is the procedure for getting a bicycle or part identified?

A: • The best/quickest method is contacting NBHAA via e-mail.

• If requesting via e-mail, take good, clear photos of the bicycle or part in question. If you write without photos, we really can't help you.

• And remember this: if you write with the DIY attitude that you already know it all because you saw a Xerox or photocopy someplace or a picture on somebody's web site or some newsletter said XYB then you're starting from a bad position. IF you are going to tell US what you have instead of us telling you, then the point of us assisting you is lost.

• When taking photos, leave people and other objects out of the photo and try to shoot against a neutral background such as a wall or garage door.

• Take photos of the WHOLE bicycle as well as any detail areas- and be sure to show the chainguard- if any. Load your photos from your digital camera into your computer. If you scan your photos, do them into JPEG/JPG format and send them as attachments.

• Do not attempt to bury photos in the actual text of your letter since this may not display properly...or at all.

• If you do not have a scanner and you need to scan, use some place like Kinko's Copies (in most areas of North America) and have them do the scans for you. Avoid gang scans (bunches of photos all crammed into one scan). Have each photo scanned individually and send each photo individually (our server likes to re-format multiple attachments, which makes it either difficult or impossible to retrieve your pics).

• No digital camera? No problem. Either scan your print photos or have them put on CD-ROM by your developer. If all else fails, take your regular photo negatives to Kodak or your local photo developer and ask them to put the photos directly onto a CD-ROM computer disc. You can even have Kodak or most overnight photo developer shops do both old-fashioned paper prints AND/OR store your pics on CD-ROM computer disc. Then use the photos on that CD-ROM because they are now digital photos. Put them in your computer and send them. This service does commonly exist and is very reasonable.

• By all means, do NOT send us to some other web site or 3rd party photo hosting site. Photos must come directly to us. And please- don't rip off photos from DIY web sites and send THOSE to us. We have to see YOUR bicycle- not something YOU think "looks just like" it. If you insist on snail mail (the old fashioned way), please be certain to include a self-addressed, stamped envelope. And expect lengthy delays in response time- be pleasantly surprised if response is sooner.

Q: Is there a charge for information?

A: PLEASE READ!!!! This depends. A simple ID for a private individual is usually no fee. However, we do have fees for copies/scans of original literature, insurance appraisals, etc. These vary depending upon amount of copying required- and there is a limit. INQUIRE. For instance, requests for unlimited amounts of information cannot be honored. if you think this is unreasonable, so be it, but we can't answer endless series of questions forever without a fee. We wish we could, but we can't. So if you are told there will be a fee for further info and get snotty about it, you'll be adios muchachos! Some eBayers are abusing our free IDs, so please understand that we can't spend hours and hours each day doing nothing but free ID-ing lists of bicycles and questions for eBay sellers who have endless litanies of bikes they are trying to sell on the internet. We're happy to help, but only happy for a limited amount of time. Information for dealers, institutions, museums, auctions, etc. are all by special arrangement and vary. Finally, you can always request an OFFICIAL NBHAA DETAILED REPORT for a standard research fee.

Q: What is an OFFICIAL NBHAA.com DETAILED REPORT AND HOW CAN I REQUEST ONE FOR MY BICYCLE?

A: Easy... simply write with good clear photos and request an OFFICIAL NBHAA.com DETAILED REPORT and pay a standard research fee as per instructions. The report includes detailed analysis of the bicycle including who made it, when it was made, where it was made, analysis of its current condition, report on missing or incorrect parts, restoration advice, professional value appraisal (suitable for insurance purposes) and copy/scan of original catalogue information showing how the bicycle would have looked when new! No frustrating do-it-yourself searching and guessing and swapping stories and trying to figure out which one of the many tales works for your bicycle. We do it all for you. You get access to our expertise, our voluminous files, and best of all... NO GUESSING!

Q: Does NBHAA assist or collaborate with institutions or museums?

A: We are happy to assist organizations, museums, institutions. However, direct arrangements are necessary, so be sure to drop us an e-mail as early as possible. We try to accommodate as reasonably and quickly as possible, however, such assistance or collaboration must be scheduled in advance, so don't wait until the last possible moment.

Q: What is a "bouillabaisse bike"? (Or a "Johnny Cash bike"... or a "schlockobogus bike")

A: Welll? Easy... and not so easy. A "bouillabaisse bike" is the kind of thing you see that often turns up on auction sites, in car auctions, swap meets, etc. These schlockobogus bikes are usually made up out of anything the seller could throw together including foreign and domestic, vintage and modern and parts from various different bicycle companies that never went together in the first place. Imagine, if you will, a Cadillac with Volkswagen parts mixed with Chevy and Ford and Toyota parts and you get the idea. Often all finished off with a rattle-can paint job- or sometimes lots of Bondo and a "professional" paint job in a bizarre color swimming in a sea of clearcoat. These "bouillabaisse bikes" are also known as "Johnny Cash bikes" because they are often for sale and usually remind any knowledgeable collector of Johnny's song that referred to a "it's a 1949-52-61-47-33-59 and... I got it all a piece at a time!" Add to that, it's a Rollfast-Schwinn-Monark-J.C.Higgins-Colson-Firestone-Good Year-Elgin-Dayton... and I got it all a piece at a time too!"

Sadly, most "bouillabaisse bikes" are presented by the sellers as "original". Believe it or not, increasingly, "bouillabaisse bikes" are showing up in prestigeous auctions and museums! Often the auctions and museums will feature such bicycles in nice glossy catalogues with elaborate and authoritarian-sounding descriptions. So... caveat emptor and read our NBHAA GTCC.

Q: I have an old red bicycle. I don't have any photos. It's a (Schwinn, Elgin, Shelby) How much is it worth and what year is it?

A: Without actually seeing a bicycle, no one can tell you precisely how much it is worth or even what it actually is! If they do, they are likely just telling you what they think you want to hear- and everybody likes to hear that they've just bought something for five bucks that is worth a million!

Price guides exist, but A.) guides are usually wildly skewed as far as realistic prices and B.) guides very often incorrectly identify years and C.) guides do not take into account varying conditions of a bicycle, nor how much to deduct if various parts are missing. For instance, on some bicycles, the tank or the headlight alone might be worth more than the entire bicycle itself! D.) ANY printed matter regarding pricing of old things ALWAYS has a limited time when it is of any use (IF it was correct in the first place). Price guides are never reliable for more than a limited period of time. AND, E.) In THIS hobby... and on the internet, nearly everybody considers themself an "expert".

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Q: Can I just send you a serial number and get all the information about my bicycle and an ID done??

A: Nobody can accurately do that. This is another rampant myth. Some people have spread crazy stories on the net that all you need to do is dump a number on us and we can tell you anything. Welll, it may SEEM that way, but believe us- it just SEEMS that way! It's a fairy tale.

While we do have the largest and most comprehensive listings of serial numbers for most of the bicycle companies, but we still require photos. Anyone who doesn't is just giving you a presumptive guess. And nobody can look at even a Schwinn serial number and tell you which exact model it was- except in the case of SOME made-for-motors frames. THAT is impossible. And even then there are no universal responses that are accurate without SEEING it. We won't pump sunshine your way, just the facts. Period.

Although age for many collector bicycles can be provided with serial numbers, this too is a tricky business, not always for amateurs and do-it-yourselfers. For instance some numbers were re-used, or placed in different locations; or combined with new model numbers (in cases other than Schwinn). Some bicycles used model numbers as well as serial numbers, others (like Schwinn) did not. For the majority of old bicycles, alas there are no complete serial number records, including for Schwinns prior to 1948 (due to a fire at Schwinn). Some bicycle retailers (such as Western Auto and Sears) used as many as a dozen different bicycle manufacturers to make their bicycles, so one needs to know both the year AND the actual manufacturer. This is not for amateurs and WAGs.

People have grown accustomed to the speed of the internet and like to get snap, quick answers or do-it-yourself info for everything. So they just wanna ask a question about a serial number and expect to get a whole encyclopedia back. But this is just not possible for old bicycles. Quick and easy answers and do-it-yourself info are all too often incorrect or misunderstood. Even with serial numbers provided (and they seldom are) there is no real evidence of overall condition, completeness, originality, etc. Value is based on a number of aspects, including overall condition, rarity, completeness, originality. Although there are certain "ballpark" figures for certain bicycles, all too often a ballpark answer turns out to be wrong for all parties. Is the headlight missing? Is the headlight installed original? Is the seat correct? In one instance, a widely touted "mint" Schwinn Aerocycle turned out to be a cobbled middleweight frame from the 1960s with large Wald universal fenders. The tank was fiberglass (far larger than original) with a flashlight embedded in the end. A "1941 J.C.Higgins"(there is no such thing) turned out to be a 1957 with parts mixed from several years and makers. A "1932 Shelby Flyer Whizzer in original paint" turned out to be a 1952 (missing lots of parts) with a 1947 engine (missing lots of parts) with 1970s imported wheels- and a home-grown paint job in colors no Shelby ever knew. Even photos might have confused most observers. But in the absence of an actual inspection, photos are a must. Quick answers without inspection are probably what you want to hear most...but sadly, that's usually all they are. Sunshine guesses.

There is also the gender issue. It turns out that classic-era boys and girls WERE different (and no sooner than we published this notation and business about WW2 scrap drives, it turned up parroted all over the hobby as if others thought of it all by themselves)! Boys generally took terrible care of their bicycles, tinkering, smashing, removing parts, customizing, rough handling. Furthermore, some classic-era boys (especially prewar ones) abruptly went off to war and left their bicycles as unused hunks of metal- candidates for the wartime scrap drives. Girls, on the other hand, generally took good care of their bicycles, rode them sensibly (even used them for work during the war as adults) and seldom even considered changing anything beyond adding a basket. As a consequence, there are fairly plentiful supplies of girls' bicycles in nice condition...and just the opposite for boys. Factor into this mix the fact that those boys are now men and doing most of the collecting, you end up with higher value on boys' bicycles (sorry ladies!).

NBHAA does have a huge quantity of serial number information for most bicycle manufacturers from the classic era. This, we can supplement with first-hand knowledge of dating we alone have developed since the 1950s. We do not, however, make WAG guesses or search through thousands (or even millions) of numbers without first actually seeing what you have as a bicycle. Gotta SEE it!

Q. What is the CLASSIC ERA for bicycles?

A. Roughly 1920 to 1965. "Classic bicycle" does not mean just ANY old bicycle. And like in automobiles, you know very well that SOME people will refer to a 1934 Packard dual-cowl phaeton as a classic. Others will refer to a 1979 Volkswagen beetle as "a classic"... er... but we HOPE you know which is which.

We coined a definition published a classic bicycle definition first in a 1978 newsletter, Classic Bicycle & Whizzer News (CBWN)... and again published and copyrighted another definition in November, 1979 issue of Bicycle Dealer Showcase (BDS) magazine. CBWN was the first and ONLY newsletter in the hobby starting in 1977- such as it was in those times. BDS was read by over 20,000 bicycle dealers and industry people. We also taught CLASSIC BICYCLE seminars in bicycle industry trade shows like the BDS EXPO (predecessor to today's INTERBIKE) in the 1970s. So we were first- it was our idea and no matter who says what today- nobody back in those times disputed our definition or had one of their own. And this definition included the time period of 1920 to roughly 1965 and included singletube, balloon and middleweight bicycles. It was followed (or in some cases overlapped) by the "musclebike" period which includes Krates and the like. The classic era was preceded by the antique era which covers 1919 and earlier, although we do feel that some bicycles such as the Charlie Chaplin bicycle and others from the antique era qualify as classics.

Since we introduced and published the first definition of "CLASSIC BICYCLE" any number of people and books and articles have come forward YEARS- EVEN DECADES LATER- attempting to put their own spin on the definition. Or to modify the term to suit their own misguided needs and ideas. But the first is the first and the reason the term exists as it is presently understood in general is because of our original concept and definition. PERIOD.

Q. How do I take photos of my bicycle for identification?

A. We prefer that you take a SET of good, clear color photos. Leave fancy scenery, your car, other bicycles, the family dog, the family and other distracting backgrounds out of the photos- just include the bicycle itself. Take shots from BOTH sides, and 3/4 rear shots in decent light, against a neutral background (even a plain garage door, bed sheet or piece of cardboard will do). If possible, take close-ups of the tank, frame, fenders, seat, lights, paint details, decals, nameplate, unusual features etc. All these will greatly aid in getting proper information to you.

If you are using a digital camera, just transfer the photos into your computer and send them in JPG format. If you use e-mail but do not have a digital camera, scan your photos into JPG format and send them along. No scanner? Try Kinko's or a similar operation. They can usually scan your photos in a matter of minutes and put them on CD. Please have your photos scanned into JPG format. We can read some other formats this may mean complications and take extra time. This is the fastest way for responses. Or you can snail-mail photos to our address. In this case, please include a self-addressed STAMPED envelope (SASE) for a reply. No SASE...usually means no response. Also, do not send photo prints you want to keep. Make duplicates. We regret that due to the volume of mail and photos, we cannot return print photos. All such photo submissions become property of NBHAA and cannot be returned.

Q. Does NBHAA charge memberships or fees?

A. Simple identifications or restoration advice are free to individual collectors. NBHAA has never charged memberships, although we do have fees for Xerox copies, certain research and official insurance evaluations. We do not have memberships- and never, ever have offered them to anyone.

Q. Is NBHAA open to the public for visits?

A. Sorry. Unfortunately, NBHAA is not open to the public. We do not have space, budget, staff, nor a proper building capable of accommodating The Archive while also handling the public. We have witnessed far too many historical endeavours close their doors after attempting to serve two masters. There are expenses, insurance, building requirements, security, all of which would take away from the present goals of NBHAA. At present, we can, however still provide you with the most accurate information anywhere via e-mail. However, a very few individual collectors and members of the press who have seen SOME of The Archive (there are also those who haven't, but who claim they have!). Additionally, video crews and magazines have been in to see some of The Archive. The most recent video is being aired on The Outdoor Network on a show entitled Bicycle Journal.

We do plan sometime in the future to have more individual access to NBHAA via the net. At present, a large database is being built that will eclipse anything the bicycle industry and collector hobby has ever known. We do not have a timetable for this development, since it is a labor of love, but expect to see continual expansions and changes in NBHAA's web site. Stay tuned.

Q. Is it better to restore a bicycle or keep it original and won't my bike be worth more restored?

A. This depends upon many factors. Best thing to do? LEAVE IT ALONE if you plan to sell it for profit. Even what you may think of as "cleaning" may actually ruin some important graphic or component. If you plan to keep it, then get busy researching and gathering parts. Do your homework! Quite often, so-called cleanings or restorations may actually REDUCE the value rather than increase it! And for heaven's sake, don't even dream of doing a rattle can paint job or switching parts from other bicycles. Our general rule is don't restore ANYTHING until you intimately know the history and can do a top-notch job with CORRECT parts, correct paint patterns and good graphics. Your curator was quoted in TRADITIONAL HOME magazine a number of years ago as saying he'd rather have the original dirt and rust than someone's "restoration". This is still true today. "Rattle can resto" can do a lot of damage and very little (if any) good where value is concerned. Also, if your restoration is one that screams, "I've been restored" then it probably is not helping the value of your bicycle much.

Also, the terms, "professionally restored" and "trophy winner" will not always increase your value. A so-called "pro restoration" can mean many things. What did the restorer begin with and did he have precise details and parts to complete an accurate restoration? Or was it simply "restored" by a professional painter? And if so, did he know the right colors and graphics? Forty coats of clear, blazing chrome and incorrect colors and graphics do NOT constitute a true restoration. They scream KUSTOM!!!! Of course, winning a trophy simply means somebody, somewhere liked the bicycle. With many such judgings being conducted by either guessing "experts" or "people's choice" the authenticity issue is a huge one. A good example. A 26-inch Hopalong Cassidy bicycle was judged at a large bicycle event. Judges, envisioning themselves as experts, erroneously believed that the cap guns and holsters were missing from the Hoppy and deducted points. Sadly, the Hoppy was dropped from the trophy it rightly deserved. Why? Because it is widely believed (due to numerous erroneous articles and statements in the hobby) that ALL Hoppys came with cap pistols. No cigar! 26-inch Hoppy bicycles did NOT come equipped with cap guns and holsters.

Of course, to some, restoration is all subjective and relative. There are even supposed "experts" who go around saying things like "...wellllll the factory just used anything they had laying around- so ya coulda had anything on there..." These kinds of statements are used most often to cover the fact that someone just doesn't know the facts. Thus, it is far easier to muddy the waters and imply any part could have been used for a restoration when one does not know any better. Oddly enough, people making such statements will likely be the first to criticize a bicycle they have not "restored" as being "wrong" when in fact this ought to be the ultimate irony in the "factory used anything" type of logic! Others may claim that it is "impossible" to restore a bicycle authentically...or that nobody knows what's authentic...or that parts cannot ever be found...all senseless arguments, most often put forth the cover the source's lack of knowledge and expertise.

The word, "purist" may even be raised as if it is a naughty, vile, evil term. Without descending into a debate over semantics and insults, suffice to say that restoration- true restoration- is exactly what a purist would and should do! As a consequence, anyone who undertakes a restoration, then, by definition IS a purist! Otherwise, if you are not performing a restoration, you are doing a customizing job. Why people are suddenly ashamed to admit that they did a custom job instead of a real restoration is a mystery. THIS is why you have so many Pontiac LeMans cars showing up at vintage car auctions with "GTO" names and parts on them! This is why so many 6-cylinder 1970s Barracudas and Challengers show up at classic car auctions dressed up as "HEMI-CUDAS" or "HEMI-CHALLENGERS"... these are customized fakes- regardless of the cute "resto" names on them. Why can't we just admit- hey, it's a FAKE CUSTOM somebody MADE up? As in it is NOT restored...it is CUSTOMIZED! If your bicycle didn't come from the original factory with an iridescent purple paint job and a thousand lights and blinding chrome- its a CUSTOM! If your Schwinn has a Shelby sprocket and a Roadmaster seat- it's a CUSTOM. It is NOT restored... it is customized! Go ahead- you CAN say it!!!

Restoration is restoration. Customizing is customizing. They are NOT the same. PERIOD. End of story. Schwinns did not come with Rollfast chainguards. Colsons did not come with ROADMASTER parts on them (unless you read bogus Smithsonian Magazine stories or L.A. Times articles). Bicycles from the 30s did not come with imported wheels from the 70s or hubs from the 90s. Original paint jobs were not swimming under a sea of clearcoat. THIS is customizing, folks. Call it what it is.

Back in the 1970s, we wrote an article on classic bicycle restoration. In that article, we stated that Webster's Dictionary defines restoration as a "return to original condition". Thus, blindingly bright blue chrome and paint jobs swimming in clear coats and non-original colors fall more under the realm of customizing rather than restoration.